在介绍鲍威尔父子Powell & Son酒庄之前,必须要介绍有两款酒位列兰顿分级至尊级的双红五星酒庄“Torbreck”。它的The Laird Shiraz葡萄酒只酿制了5个年份,均价高达640美元(税前),超过奔富葛兰许,其中2005和2008两个年份均获得了帕克满分。Torbreck酒庄的创始人,便是澳大利亚的酿酒师Dave Powell。酒评家罗伯特帕克(Robert Parker)曾说:“Dave Powel是优秀而有趣的酿酒师。他一向视烟如命、满口污言、直肠直肚,但他酿出红酒的优秀品质,这是毋庸置疑的。” DAVE POWELL用了近20年时间把双红五星酒庄Torbreck酒庄推到了近乎 “澳洲膜拜酒”的高度,但也正是因其管理风格与新的投资人格格不入,在2013年被扫地出门,从身价10亿澳元到身无分文,一时成为媒体沸腾的焦点。在南澳洲巴罗萨这个说大不大,说小不小,但是藏龙卧虎的地方,Dave Powell在这一众顶尖酿酒师里,依然鹤立鸡群。他的前半生只需要提到三个关键字「Rockford(石佛酒庄), Torbreck(托布雷), Powell & Son(鲍威尔父子酒庄)」中前面两个词就足以让酒圈的人肃然起敬。
离开双红五星酒庄Torbreck后的Dave Powell并没有一蹶不振,他决定带上自己的儿子东山再起,继续在巴罗萨谷开始经营新事业Powell & Son。 Dave Powell想要把Powell & Son打造成为巴罗萨谷的罗曼尼康帝,同时搭配一些价格平易的酒款。
对此,DB(drink business)专门写过一篇“DAVE POWELL:待宰羔羊东山再起”,再现了其中的恩怨情仇,感兴趣的话可以百度搜索阅读。整个酒款系列从25-500英镑(224-4500元人民币)不等。 在此必须介绍巴罗萨谷产区,其在澳大利亚的地位类似于美国加州的纳帕谷或者法国勃艮第的夜丘。面积虽极小(上图紫红色),却汇集了澳洲近三分之一的顶级酒庄。10年考察期满后(2024年),Powell & Son酒庄也必将入选澳洲双红五星和兰顿至尊级(Exceptional)序列。不过如同世界上每个父亲一样,Dave Powell最想做的便是传承,把自己的一身能力传承给自己的儿子Callum Powell。 这款鲍威尔父子传承西拉子充分体现出澳大利亚西拉子红酒的高水准。浓郁的和加仑、李子和黑莓的香气,掺杂着巧克力和香料以及烟草的味道。口感柔顺、单宁细腻,咖啡和雪松的味道在舌尖舞动,余味中漂亮的平衡和香气久久回味。
The Kraehe family were amongst the original settlers to come to the Barossa Valley in the middle of the 19thcentury. Though the family has all but left their original home on the slopes of Marananga, many of their vineyard plantings live on today. The oldest vines on our Kraehe property are now over 100 years old. My father first began working with the vineyard in 1994 and has been making wine from these vines since. The wine produced from these centurion vines have always produced the backbone of my father’s most premium wines and it now makes a single vineyard wine of its own named after the original settlers of the area.
The Kraehe vineyard is at 235 metres altitude and planted to a gentle Eastern exposure on Marananga’s ironstone ridge. Its soils are red, ironstone-rich clays. The vineyard is East-West trellised and rod and spur pruned.
The wine is aged two years in Dominique Laurent ‘Magic Casks’, of which we are lucky be one of the few producers outside of France that have an allocation of the barrels. The Magic Cask oak is hand selected by Dominique Laurent and then air dried for four years before cooperage. The staves are 45mm thick, double the thickness of many regular barrel staves, which provide very long and consistent oxidation throughout maturation and slow oak character integration into the wine.
The Shiraz produced from this vineyard is the epitome of the world renowned style that is Barossa Valley Shiraz. The wine is rich and generous in fruit: plum, dark cherry and blackberry. It provides a deep, dark svelte tannin backbone and mouth-coating palate. The wine stands alone in intensity, opulence and concentration of flavour. It is a style unique to the world of wine – the style that put Australian wine in the realm of global fine wine – and a style which we are truly proud to be its upholders of.
“The Kraehe Marananga Shiraz jumps out of the glass with blueberry and plum fruits, underscored by sensual oak characters and meaty complexity. It shows ground coffee and mocha, fertile earth and dried herbs.
The wine stains the palate and develops layers from beginning to finish – it displays blackberry compote and kirsch, before developing into woodsmoke, cured meats and olive through to the finish. The tannin profile is assertive, yet fine grained and tight-knit. The full-bodied concentrated palate provides a very long-lasting finish.”